Local Cuisine of Phang Nga: Where to Find Authentic Southern Thai Food
Southern Thai food is among Thailand’s most exciting regional cuisines, yet it remains somewhat undiscovered by international visitors. Phang Nga province, nestled between tourist hotspots Phuket and Krabi, offers the perfect opportunity to explore these bold, spicy flavors in their authentic form.
As someone who has spent years exploring Phang Nga’s food scene, I’ve discovered that this province delivers some of the most genuine Southern Thai culinary experiences you can find. From humble roadside stalls to generations-old family restaurants, here’s your guide to experiencing the true flavors of Southern Thailand in Phang Nga.
Understanding Southern Thai Cuisine
Before diving into where to eat, it helps to understand what makes Southern Thai food distinct from the Thai cuisine you might be familiar with.
Southern Thai cooking is characterized by its intensity – spicier, saltier, and more sour than the central Thai food commonly served in international Thai restaurants. The region’s abundant coastline means seafood features prominently, often preserved in inventive ways to extend shelf life in the tropical heat.
Key ingredients that define Southern Thai cuisine include:
- Turmeric – Used fresh rather than dried, giving dishes a vibrant yellow color
- Kapi – Intense shrimp paste that forms the foundation of many recipes
- Fresh chilies – Used in quantities that might shock the uninitiated
- Coconut milk – Featured in curries and sweets, often extracted fresh daily
- Sour fruits – Like tamarind, garcinia (som khaek), and green mango
- Palm sugar – A complex sweetener with caramel notes
These ingredients combine to create a cuisine that’s unapologetically bold yet perfectly balanced in the hands of skilled local cooks.
Must-Try Southern Thai Dishes in Phang Nga
1. Kaeng Tai Pla (Fermented Fish Innards Curry)
Don’t let the translation deter you – this intensely flavorful curry is Southern Thailand’s culinary masterpiece. Made with fermented fish innards, bamboo shoots, grilled eggplant, and a fiery blend of spices, it exemplifies the powerful flavors of Southern cooking. The best versions develop a complexity that goes far beyond simple heat.
2. Khua Kling (Dry Meat Curry)
This dry-fried meat dish (typically made with pork or beef) is stir-fried with a potent curry paste until the meat absorbs all the spice paste flavors. Intensely spicy and aromatic with no coconut milk to temper the heat, it’s often served with fresh vegetables to help cool the palate.
3. Gaeng Som (Sour Curry)
While versions of this sour orange curry exist throughout Thailand, the Southern variant is particularly tangy and spicy. Typically made with fish and featuring unripe pineapple, green papaya, or other sour fruits, the broth balances sour, spicy, and savory notes without any coconut milk.
4. Nam Prik Kapi (Shrimp Paste Chili Dip)
This pungent chili dip starring fermented shrimp paste is served with an array of fresh and blanched vegetables plus fried fish. It’s a staple on Southern Thai tables and showcases the region’s love of bold, umami-rich flavors.
5. Moo Hong (Five-Spice Stewed Pork Belly)
Showing the Chinese influence on Southern Thai cuisine, particularly in Phuket and Phang Nga, this melt-in-your-mouth pork belly is slow-cooked with five-spice, black pepper, and palm sugar until tender and richly flavored.
6. Khao Yam (Rice Salad)
This refreshing dish combines rice with finely chopped herbs, vegetables, and a sweet-salty dressing made from budu (fermented fish sauce). Often eaten for breakfast, it’s a riot of colors, textures, and flavors that perfectly represents the region’s abundant produce.
Where to Find Authentic Southern Thai Food in Phang Nga
Phang Nga Town
1. Krua Nangngam (ครัวนางงาม)
Location: Near Phang Nga Provincial Hall, Phang Nga Town Specialty: Gaeng Som (Sour Curry) and Pla Tod Khamin (Turmeric Fried Fish)
This unpretentious restaurant has been serving impeccable Southern dishes for over 15 years. The owner, Khun Ngam, is often in the open kitchen, grinding curry pastes by hand each morning. Her Gaeng Som strikes the perfect balance between sour and spicy, while the turmeric-marinated fried fish is crispy outside and juicy within.
Price range: ฿100-200 per person Opening hours: 10:00 AM – 8:00 PM (Closed Wednesdays)
2. Raan Aharn Tai Phatthalung (ร้านอาหารใต้พัทลุง)
Location: Thong Thip Market area, Phang Nga Town Specialty: Kaeng Tai Pla (Fermented Fish Innards Curry) and Khua Kling (Dry Meat Curry)
Founded by a family from Phatthalung province (renowned for its pure Southern cuisine), this no-frills eatery serves some of the most authentic Southern dishes in town. Their Kaeng Tai Pla is legendarily pungent and spicy, made with an old family recipe that ferments the fish properly. Not for the faint-hearted but a must for true food adventurers.
Price range: ฿80-150 per person Opening hours: 7:00 AM – 5:00 PM daily
3. Krua Phang Nga (ครัวพังงา)
Location: Phetkasem Road, Phang Nga Town Specialty: Moo Hong (Five-Spice Stewed Pork Belly) and Nam Prik Goong Siap (Dried Shrimp Chili Paste)
Set in a charming wooden house, this restaurant specializes in Peranakan cuisine – the unique blend of Chinese and Southern Thai influences that developed among the Straits Chinese communities. Their Moo Hong is tender, aromatic, and perfect with steamed rice, while the shrimp chili paste showcases the intense flavors achieved through traditional preparation methods.
Price range: ฿150-300 per person Opening hours: 11:00 AM – 9:00 PM daily
Khao Lak Area
4. Nai Mueang (ในเมือง)
Location: Bang Niang Market area, Khao Lak Specialty: Khao Yam (Rice Salad) and Khanom Jeen Nam Ya Tai (Rice Noodles with Southern Fish Curry)
Despite its location in tourist-friendly Khao Lak, Nai Mueang serves decidedly uncompromising Southern Thai food. Their Khao Yam features an abundance of fresh herbs and perfectly balanced budu dressing, while the Khanom Jeen Nam Ya Tai offers rice noodles with a fiery, complex fish curry sauce. This is where locals go when they crave authentic flavors.
Price range: ฿90-180 per person Opening hours: 6:30 AM – 2:00 PM (Breakfast and lunch only)
5. Krua Sai Nam (ครัวทรายน้ำ)
Location: Highway 4, south of Khao Lak Beach Specialty: Pla Pao Kleua (Salt-Crusted Grilled Fish) and Gaeng Pu Bai Cha Plu (Crab Curry with Wild Betel Leaves)
Set in a breezy pavilion surrounded by tropical gardens, this restaurant specializes in locally caught seafood prepared with traditional Southern recipes. The salt-crusted grilled fish is a showstopper – whole fish packed in salt and grilled until perfectly moist. Their crab curry with wild betel leaves is rich with fresh coconut milk and intense spices.
Price range: ฿200-400 per person Opening hours: 10:00 AM – 9:00 PM daily
Takua Pa Old Town
6. Pa Yim (ป้ายิ้ม)
Location: Takua Pa Old Town, near the Sunday Walking Street Specialty: Massaman Curry and Mee Hokkien (Hokkien Noodles)
Takua Pa’s historical ties to Chinese and Muslim traders are reflected in its cuisine. Pa Yim’s Massaman curry shows the Muslim influence with its aromatic spice blend, while their Mee Hokkien represents the Chinese heritage with fresh yellow noodles in a rich prawn and pork broth. The restaurant occupies a beautiful old Sino-Portuguese building with vintage photos decorating the walls.
Price range: ฿120-250 per person Opening hours: 11:00 AM – 8:00 PM (Closed Mondays)
Thai Mueang District
7. Krua Nai Nang (ครัวนายหนัง)
Location: Near Thai Mueang Beach Specialty: Pla Goong (Spicy Shrimp Salad) and Gaeng Leang (Spicy Vegetable Soup)
This seaside restaurant specializes in freshly caught seafood prepared in traditional Southern style. Their Pla Goong features plump shrimp tossed with lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves, and a fiery dressing, while the Gaeng Leang offers a clear, intensely spiced soup packed with local vegetables and herbs. The oceanfront setting adds to the experience.
Price range: ฿150-300 per person Opening hours: 10:00 AM – 9:00 PM daily
Local Markets
8. Phang Nga Town Morning Market
Location: Downtown Phang Nga Specialty: Khao Mok Gai (Southern-style Chicken Biryani) and Khao Yam (Rice Salad)
For breakfast like a local, head to Phang Nga’s bustling morning market. Several stalls serve authentic Southern breakfast dishes, including fragrant Khao Mok Gai with its turmeric-yellow rice and tender chicken. Look for the stall with the longest line of locals – always a good sign.
Price range: ฿40-80 per dish Opening hours: 6:00 AM – 11:00 AM daily
9. Bang Niang Market (Khao Lak)
Location: Bang Niang area, Khao Lak Specialty: Nam Prik (Chili Dips) and Kanom (Thai Sweets)
This market operates three evenings a week (Monday, Wednesday, and Saturday) and features numerous food stalls selling authentic Southern specialties. The Nam Prik stalls offer various chili dips with the traditional accompaniments of vegetables and fried fish, while sweet stalls sell treats like Khanom Ko (sticky rice dumplings with palm sugar) and Khanom Krok (coconut pancakes).
Price range: ฿30-150 depending on selections Opening hours: 3:00 PM – 9:00 PM (Monday, Wednesday, Saturday)
10. Takua Pa Sunday Market
Location: Takua Pa Old Town Specialty: Various Southern snacks and street food
On Sunday evenings, Takua Pa’s atmospheric old town transforms into a walking street market with dozens of food vendors. Look for unusual Southern specialties like Khao Ti (rice wrapped in leaves), Som Tam Tai (Southern-style green papaya salad with fermented fish), and traditional Muslim sweets with unique ingredients like black sticky rice and pandanus.
Price range: ฿20-100 per item Opening hours: 4:00 PM – 9:00 PM (Sundays only)
Tips for Exploring Phang Nga’s Food Scene
Navigating Spice Levels
Southern Thai food is notoriously spicy – even by Thai standards. Here are some phrases that might help:
- “Mai phet” (ไม่เผ็ด) – Not spicy
- “Phet noi” (เผ็ดน้อย) – A little spicy
- “Phet pahn glahng” (เผ็ดปานกลาง) – Medium spicy
- “Thai noi” (ไทยน้อย) – “Thai mild” (useful in tourist areas)
Be aware that “not spicy” in Southern Thailand might still be quite hot by international standards – it’s all relative!
Best Times to Visit
- Local restaurants are typically busiest from 11:30 AM – 1:00 PM when office workers take lunch breaks
- Morning markets are most active from 6:00 AM – 8:00 AM
- Many authentic Southern restaurants close by mid-afternoon, especially those serving breakfast and lunch only
Dining Etiquette
- Thais typically eat with a spoon in the right hand and fork in the left, using the fork to push food onto the spoon
- Rice is the foundation of most meals – dishes are meant to be eaten with rice, not as standalone courses
- It’s common to order several dishes for the table to share
- In very local establishments, you might need to serve yourself water from a communal cooler
Dietary Considerations
- Vegetarianism isn’t traditionally common in Southern Thai cuisine, though more options are appearing
- If you’re vegetarian, the phrase “gin jay” (กินเจ) indicates strictly vegetarian food
- For those who eat seafood but not meat, “gin mangsawirat” (กินมังสวิรัติ) can be useful
- Muslim-owned restaurants (common in parts of Phang Nga with Muslim communities) will be halal
Culinary Souvenirs from Phang Nga
Bring these local food products home to extend your Southern Thai culinary experience:
1. Nam Prik Goong Siap
This dried shrimp chili paste keeps well and makes a flavorful addition to rice or noodle dishes. Look for it in the Phang Nga Town market, where vendors sell homemade versions in sealed containers.
2. Kapi (Shrimp Paste)
High-quality shrimp paste from Phang Nga is prized throughout Thailand. The version from Koh Yao island is particularly renowned. Buy it wrapped in banana leaf packages at local markets.
3. Pineapple from Thai Mueang
Thai Mueang district is famous for its sweet, fragrant pineapples. While you can’t take the fresh fruit home internationally, look for dried pineapple products that capture the unique flavor.
4. Nam Pla (Fish Sauce)
Artisanal fish sauce from small producers along the Andaman coast offers deeper flavor than commercial brands. Look for amber-colored sauce in recycled whiskey bottles at markets – a sign of small-batch production.
Learning to Cook Southern Thai Food
For those interested in bringing Southern Thai cooking skills home, several options exist in Phang Nga:
1. Ya’s Cookery School
Located near Khao Lak, Ya’s offers specific classes focused on Southern Thai specialties, using traditional ingredients and techniques.
2. Takua Pa Local Food Tours
Several operators in historic Takua Pa offer food tours that include cooking demonstrations in local homes, providing authentic instruction on Southern Thai dishes.
3. Market Tours with Cooking Sessions
Some guesthouses in Phang Nga Town can arrange informal cooking lessons with local family cooks, starting with market tours to select ingredients.
Phang Nga’s culinary landscape offers one of Thailand’s most exciting and authentic food experiences. Far from the watered-down versions of Thai food often found in tourist centers, here you’ll discover the true depth, complexity, and regional character of Southern Thai cuisine.
From fiery curries to aromatic rice salads, from Chinese-influenced stews to Muslim-inspired spice blends, Phang Nga’s food tells the story of this culturally rich province through its flavors. By seeking out these local eateries and markets, you’ll not only treat your taste buds to unforgettable meals but also connect with the heritage and traditions that make Southern Thai food so special.
Whether you’re a culinary adventurer seeking the most challenging flavors or simply a food lover looking for genuine local experiences, Phang Nga’s diverse food scene offers something to discover at every meal.
Have you experienced Southern Thai food in Phang Nga? Share your favorite dishes or restaurants in the comments below!
